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Climbing Destination “Costa Blanca”

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The Costa Blanca currently experience a renaissance as a very well known climbing area for people who like to escape the northern European winter.

Doggy GuantanamoThe area is mentioned as one of the winter destination for climbers in the low- and mid-grades on the British climbing, mountaineering and hillwalking forum, UK Climbing!

Here the article: How to Survive Your First Sport Climbing Holiday

Furthermore, the British Mountaineering Council (BMC) released an article about Spain’s secret escapes for climbers up to the mid-grades.

Find out more about the Spanish secrets: top 5 best mid-grade sport climbing destinations.

Costa Vertical is operating out of Sella and Finestrat and Tony Pearson even owns one of the crags mentioned in the BMC article.The topo is available on our website here.

So, don’t hesitate to contact us. We will organize an unforgettable climbing holiday for you in the Costa Blanca – it doesn’t matter if you are a beginner or experienced climber.

Enjoy reading the two articles and we hope they convince you to visit.

 

 

Guadalest Castle

RECOMMENDATIONS FOR CLIMBING IN GUADALEST, COSTA BLANCA, SPAIN

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Together with Miguel Ángel Bravo the owner of “El Refu Escalada en Guadalest“ we publish the following “Recommendations For Climbing In Guadalest”:

  1. Always wear a helmet in all sectors of the Guadalest climbing area. The limestone is quite soft in Guadalest. Rock falls and loose holds are quite common.
  2. Don’t toprope through the existing lower-offs. Use your  own gear – quickdraws, screw gate carabiners etc. – to set-up topropes. The last person threads the lower-off. Lower-offs are expensive and need to be replaced more frequently if they are used for toproping. Be aware that all bolts and lower-offs have been paid by the local climbing community.
  3. Park only in the marked car parks. The space by the “Frontón” building – directly by the crag “Penya de l’Alcala” – is council owned. Please, don’t park there overnight or in the mornings. Although it looks like a dump place, please, leave enough space for a council lorry to get to the mountains of scrap at any time. You can park as well at “El Refu Escalada en Guadalest”. If you do so it would be really kind if you leave a tip with the owners or have a drink to acknowledge their facilities.
  4. Toilets are available at “El Refu Escalda en Guadalest”. If you use them, please, be aware that they are kept clean by the owners of the location. So, have a drink or leave a small tip as main’s water and electricity in Spain are quite expensive. If you don’t want to use their facilitate, don’t leave a trace. How to do so, please, follow the given guidelines here – How to shit in the woods.
  5. Don’t stay overnight in your van on any car park close to the climbing areas. If you do so you might risk a visit from “Guardia Civil” and obviously a fine. There are overnight facilities available in “El Refu Escalada de Guadalest” and as well on the car parks in Guadalest (Fee: 2 €).
  6. Don’t leave a trace! Take all your rubbish incl. toilet paper, orange peel etc. with you.

Additional recommendations for climbing courses and groups:

  • Don’t block any sectors. Only leave topropes in the routes you are using for your course/group.
  • Set-up topropes with your own gear – quickdraws, screw gate carabiners etc.!
  • Don’t be too noisy.
  • Let Miguel know that you’re coming with a group / course beforehand.
  • Visit “El Refu Escalada en Guadalest” with your group and/or leave a contribution to the development of the area with Miguel. If you’d like to try one of the local specialties, i.e. Paella, mountain stews etc., please, let the owners of “El Refu Escalada en Guadalest” know in advance. They are not a restaurant so will prepare all dishes for your group specially upon your request.

If you’d like to know why we’ve published those recommendations, please, read the explanation here.

Guadalest Castle

Sport Climbing in Guadalest – Background

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RECOMMENDATIONS FOR CLIMBING IN GUADALEST, COSTA BLANCA, SPAIN

The climbing history of Guadalest started more than 40 years ago. However, like the climbing world changed during the years, Guadalest as well did. From a small crag for trad lovers to one of the most visited climbing areas here in the Costa Blanca.

Nowadays, it’s popularity is as well its curse (if you don’t want to read the whole story about the crag, just click the link above).

Guadalest is one of the most popular tourist villages in the Costa Blanca and constantly rated in between the most beautiful villages in the Valencian Community. It received thousands of visitors every summer which come to the village normally by organized coach trips from the tourist resorts at the beach.

Because of its location on an impressive rock face – you can only reach the old village through a tunnel – it’s hard to hide and attracts for more than 40 years climbers first from all over Spain and now as well all over Europe. In the beginning it was mainly traditional climbing on long routes directly under the village. However, during the last couple of years the area got its final push from an enthusiastic group of local climbers who started to develop the area with great sport climbing routes through beautiful, but as well quite soft limestone. This development is still ongoing. One of those enthusiasts, Miguel Ángel Bravo, also opened “El Refu Escalada en Guadalest” to offer refreshments and accommodation to climbers.

It’s needless to say that all the development has been financed purely privately by all the route setters and as well by the climbing community.

Obviously, all the development hasn’t gone unnoticed by the authorities mainly the council of Guadalest. And having a direct contact with the climbing community in person of Miguel Ángel Bravo the council raised the concern that climbing in Guadalest could ruin the reputation of Guadalest as a tourist destination. Their main concerns lie in the following points:

  • accidents and therewith presence of A&E personnel and police
  • blocking car parks 
  • people staying in their vans overnight and don’t contribute to the local infrastructure of the village. You can stay overnight on the village car parks for 2 €.
  • Littering etc.

The last development of routes and as well the climbing on those beautiful rock faces of Guadalest is only possible as Miguel agreed with the council to be responsible to communicate those concerns to the climbing world and to minimize accidents. Unfortunately, Miguel only speaks Spanish and quite basic English which already has lead to misunderstandings. Please, stay patient and polite when you are asked to do something by him while climbing in Guadalest.

However, climbing in the following sectors “Zoo”, “Castillo” und “Everest” by the car park directly under the village is currently not allowed.

So, please, read through the “RECOMMENDATIONS FOR CLIMBING IN GUADALEST” and follow them when you are out there. We know that many of us are not used to follow rules or don’t like to be told off while climbing, but in this specific case without following them climbing in Guadalest will be at risk and the Costa Blanca might loose a very special sport climbing location.

If you’ve got any questions, please, ask them in the comment section of this post so that we can discuss them openly. Thank you.

 

 

 

“La Moleta”, Sella – New updated Topo

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We’ve finally finished the new topo for the climbing here at “La Moleta”, Sella.

Enjoy the topo and the climbing up here. The paper version is available in the climbing shop “La Gruta” in La Nucia or for a small contribution to our bolt fund here at “La Moleta”.

The topo is available in English, German and Spanish.

Please, download the topo for free here: “LA MOLETA – TOPO – NOVEMBER 2016“

Topo Update – “La Moleta”

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We are currently updating the topo for Sella’s area “La Moleta”. Shortly, you’ll be able to download it from our site free of charge. If you’d like to have a paper version of the topo for the whole area it’s available at our home base at “El Collao” for a small donation into the bolt fund. Before the whole topo will be published we release the last sector “Trad Buttress” today with two trad routs and three sport routes in the lower grades.

Enjoy climbing them and see you soon up here at “La Moleta”.

Topo "Trad Buttress"Trad Routes:

1. Sin Tabaco – 65 m – V

2. Zapatillas – 65 m – 6a

Sport Routes:

3. Traditionally Bolted – 20 m – IV+

4. Status Quo on Speed Dial – 20 m – V

5. Plastic Gangster – 20 m – V+

 

Guadalest

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Guadalest is one of the most beautiful villages of the Costa Blanca. It’s nestling between spectacular mountain ranges – the Sierra Aitana, the Sierra Serrella and the Sierra Xortá.

During our climbing courses, walking holidays and guided walks you will be able to discover Guadalest from the distance as it catches your eye while walking through the Sierras of the Costa Blanca or during a visit after a walking or climbing day. The climbing area we use is directly underneath the village and sometimes we stop by at the climber’s refuge in Guadalest which is run by Marisol and Miguel – dedicated climbers and brilliant hosts – for a coffee or beer as well.

Click on the photo and enjoy a 360° panoramic tour around Guadalest and the surrounding areas. Enjoy.

Thanks to Panoramicas Aereas for those brilliant shot.

Sella’s “Water Route” – Easy Walks in the Costa Blanca

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The village of Sella

Sella’s “Water Route” is one of the easier walks here in the Costa Blanca. We already did parts of the walk before and visited its waterfalls in October which are fed by the spring in the “Barranc de L’Arc” after heavy rains.

Today we walked from the “Alcantara” spring via “La Solana” into the village of Sella. After a short break we continued towards the park surrounding the water mill Continue Reading →

New Routes at “La Moleta”, Sella

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During the month of January 2016 our friend Jonathan Emett was addicted by creating new routes and added 11 routes to the crags at “La Moleta“.

As it’s his birthday today we’re going to publish the topo for sector “Solo Sunrise” where Jonathan bolted his first route here in Sella about 3 years ago.

With this new sector there are three sectors for Costa Vertical’s “Introduction to Sport Climbing” courses available on our doorstep.

A big thanks to Jonathan and happy birthday!

Sector “Solo Sunrise”

20160209_Solo SunriseRoutes:
1 Han, 6a
2 Bolted Sunset, V+
3 Napoleon, V
4 Solo Sunrise, V+
5 Appetite for Construction, IV
6 Carolyn Rocks, IV+
7 Smuggling Canadians, 6a

Rowland’s Magical Mystery Tour, Sierra de Toix – Sea Cliff climbing in the Costa Blanca

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One of our favourite routes here in the area is Rowland’s Magical Mystery Tour. Located on the Toix sea cliffs the route is a small expedition and can be climbed all year long. Ok, in summer you’ve to get up quite early.

Last weekend we guided Nicki & Joan from Finestrat on their first sea cliff adventure. And, it seems that they have enjoyed it. Thanks a lot for the nice day out.