Tag: Sport Climbing

Guadalest Castle

RECOMMENDATIONS FOR CLIMBING IN GUADALEST, COSTA BLANCA, SPAIN

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Together with Miguel Ángel Bravo the owner of “El Refu Escalada en Guadalest“ we publish the following “Recommendations For Climbing In Guadalest”:

  1. Always wear a helmet in all sectors of the Guadalest climbing area. The limestone is quite soft in Guadalest. Rock falls and loose holds are quite common.
  2. Don’t toprope through the existing lower-offs. Use your  own gear – quickdraws, screw gate carabiners etc. – to set-up topropes. The last person threads the lower-off. Lower-offs are expensive and need to be replaced more frequently if they are used for toproping. Be aware that all bolts and lower-offs have been paid by the local climbing community.
  3. Park only in the marked car parks. The space by the “Frontón” building – directly by the crag “Penya de l’Alcala” – is council owned. Please, don’t park there overnight or in the mornings. Although it looks like a dump place, please, leave enough space for a council lorry to get to the mountains of scrap at any time. You can park as well at “El Refu Escalada en Guadalest”. If you do so it would be really kind if you leave a tip with the owners or have a drink to acknowledge their facilities.
  4. Toilets are available at “El Refu Escalda en Guadalest”. If you use them, please, be aware that they are kept clean by the owners of the location. So, have a drink or leave a small tip as main’s water and electricity in Spain are quite expensive. If you don’t want to use their facilitate, don’t leave a trace. How to do so, please, follow the given guidelines here – How to shit in the woods.
  5. Don’t stay overnight in your van on any car park close to the climbing areas. If you do so you might risk a visit from “Guardia Civil” and obviously a fine. There are overnight facilities available in “El Refu Escalada de Guadalest” and as well on the car parks in Guadalest (Fee: 2 €).
  6. Don’t leave a trace! Take all your rubbish incl. toilet paper, orange peel etc. with you.

Additional recommendations for climbing courses and groups:

  • Don’t block any sectors. Only leave topropes in the routes you are using for your course/group.
  • Set-up topropes with your own gear – quickdraws, screw gate carabiners etc.!
  • Don’t be too noisy.
  • Let Miguel know that you’re coming with a group / course beforehand.
  • Visit “El Refu Escalada en Guadalest” with your group and/or leave a contribution to the development of the area with Miguel. If you’d like to try one of the local specialties, i.e. Paella, mountain stews etc., please, let the owners of “El Refu Escalada en Guadalest” know in advance. They are not a restaurant so will prepare all dishes for your group specially upon your request.

If you’d like to know why we’ve published those recommendations, please, read the explanation here.

“La Moleta”, Sella – New updated Topo

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We’ve finally finished the new topo for the climbing here at “La Moleta”, Sella.

Enjoy the topo and the climbing up here. The paper version is available in the climbing shop “La Gruta” in La Nucia or for a small contribution to our bolt fund here at “La Moleta”.

The topo is available in English, German and Spanish.

Please, download the topo for free here: “LA MOLETA – TOPO – NOVEMBER 2016“

Topo Update – “La Moleta”

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We are currently updating the topo for Sella’s area “La Moleta”. Shortly, you’ll be able to download it from our site free of charge. If you’d like to have a paper version of the topo for the whole area it’s available at our home base at “El Collao” for a small donation into the bolt fund. Before the whole topo will be published we release the last sector “Trad Buttress” today with two trad routs and three sport routes in the lower grades.

Enjoy climbing them and see you soon up here at “La Moleta”.

Topo "Trad Buttress"Trad Routes:

1. Sin Tabaco – 65 m – V

2. Zapatillas – 65 m – 6a

Sport Routes:

3. Traditionally Bolted – 20 m – IV+

4. Status Quo on Speed Dial – 20 m – V

5. Plastic Gangster – 20 m – V+

 

Guadalest

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Guadalest is one of the most beautiful villages of the Costa Blanca. It’s nestling between spectacular mountain ranges – the Sierra Aitana, the Sierra Serrella and the Sierra Xortá.

During our climbing courses, walking holidays and guided walks you will be able to discover Guadalest from the distance as it catches your eye while walking through the Sierras of the Costa Blanca or during a visit after a walking or climbing day. The climbing area we use is directly underneath the village and sometimes we stop by at the climber’s refuge in Guadalest which is run by Marisol and Miguel – dedicated climbers and brilliant hosts – for a coffee or beer as well.

Click on the photo and enjoy a 360° panoramic tour around Guadalest and the surrounding areas. Enjoy.

Thanks to Panoramicas Aereas for those brilliant shot.

New Routes at “La Moleta”, Sella

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During the month of January 2016 our friend Jonathan Emett was addicted by creating new routes and added 11 routes to the crags at “La Moleta“.

As it’s his birthday today we’re going to publish the topo for sector “Solo Sunrise” where Jonathan bolted his first route here in Sella about 3 years ago.

With this new sector there are three sectors for Costa Vertical’s “Introduction to Sport Climbing” courses available on our doorstep.

A big thanks to Jonathan and happy birthday!

Sector “Solo Sunrise”

20160209_Solo SunriseRoutes:
1 Han, 6a
2 Bolted Sunset, V+
3 Napoleon, V
4 Solo Sunrise, V+
5 Appetite for Construction, IV
6 Carolyn Rocks, IV+
7 Smuggling Canadians, 6a

Climbing Destination “Costa Blanca”

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The Costa Blanca currently experience a renaissance as a very well known climbing area for people who like to escape the northern European winter.

Doggy GuantanamoThe area is mentioned as one of the winter destination for climbers in the low- and mid-grades on the British climbing, mountaineering and hillwalking forum, UK Climbing!

Here the article: How to Survive Your First Sport Climbing Holiday

Furthermore, the British Mountaineering Council (BMC) released an article about Spain’s secret escapes for climbers up to the mid-grades.

Find out more about the Spanish secrets: top 5 best mid-grade sport climbing destinations.

Costa Vertical is operating out of Sella and Finestrat and Tony Pearson even owns one of the crags mentioned in the BMC article.The topo is available on our website here.

So, don’t hesitate to contact us. We will organize an unforgettable climbing holiday for you in the Costa Blanca – it doesn’t matter if you are a beginner or experienced climber.

Enjoy reading the two articles and we hope they convince you to visit.

 

 

Sella – “La Moleta” – Topo Update

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Today we are happy to release an updated “La Moleta” topo incl. the three sectors “New Year’s Day”, “Bear” and “Doggy Guantanamo”. “New Year’s Day” offers unpolished easy routes and it’s ideal for beginners and for warming up for the other sectors. The routes in “Bear” are short and therefore tricky with technical climbing on tufa blobs and slabs. “Doggy Guantanamo” offers long routes from V+ to 7b+ on high quality rock and great features. All sectors are definitely worth a visit and you can easily spend a full day or more in the area.

DOWNLOAD TOPO

Sella – Sector “Bear” – Topo

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20141231_SECTOR-BEAR-TOPO

1. 6c, 2. 6a, 3. 6b+, 4. 6b, 5. 7a, 6. 6c, 7. 6a, 8. 6a

This is one of the three new sector beyond sector “Final” at La Moleta in the Sella valley. It is possible to drive up to the yellow house at the top of the hill and parking is available, alternatively it is a short walk up the hill.

We’ve already released the topo for sector “Doggie Guantanamo” which you could download here. There is one further sector directly behind sector “Final” with grades from 4+ to 6a. We will post this topo soon, however Continue Reading →