“Diedros Mágicos”, 6a (E1) – Puig Campana


“Diedros Mágicos”, 6a (E1)

Keeping a promise I made to myself this season, I set off for the Puig Campana with Craig Naylor to climb a route on this awesome mountain.  I have always wondered why I drive all over the Costa Blanca climbing, when this great venue is on my door step. This was to be my third route on the mountain, and we had selected “Diedros Mágicos”, 6a (E1).

The route is 5 pitches long with an option of a further 4 pitches of grade 4 climbing. We opted to just do the 5 pitches, the first of these is a beautiful corner pitch which takes you up to a bolted hanging belay with your feet in a cave. Craig took over the leading for the 2nd pitch which is more or less a corner but you move onto the face a  couple of times to bypass some difficulties.


Looking up pitch 2. Craig leading.

I took the lead for the 3rd pitch, this pitch has a bit more old fixed gear on it in the form of pitons, it is steady climbing until you move right to the belay. Then you make some interesting moves up and right.

The 4th pitch is the easiest, but it is still interesting climbing, we may of gone a bit high before traversing left back to the corner, but an inviting piece of tat around a tree was to good not to clip.

The final pitch is the icing on a superb piece of cake, we both looked up and the intimidating roof  was above us.


The 5th pitch with the imposing roof caping the corner crack.

This was to be my pitch, I love climbing features something that can be missing on a lot of sport routes. This pitch had it all, up and through the roof, into a corner then a move left to another corner, and the top of the route.


Craig on the final belay. Three abseils left to the ground and lunch.

The descent is made via three abseils down the route to the right.  This area of the Puig Campana has a lot of routes of great quality and I will be heading back up there more often. Thanks to Craig for letting me have all the best pitches and for joining me.